JULY 2008 ONLINE EDITORIALS
The Prevailing Culinary Wind
By Michael Mockler
I was born in a cross-fire hurricane
And I howled at my ma in the driving rain,
But it’s all right now, in fact, it’s a gas!
But it’s all right. I’m Jumpin’ Jack Flash,
It’s a gas! Gas! Gas!
(Jagger/Richards)
To Patrick Laguens, music and the culinary arts are similar. They’re about arousing the senses and shaking the booty. In the kitchen at Plank, Chef Patrick Laguens’ nouveau restaurant, the music is always playing. You can hear it in the crash of the sauté pan, the sizzle of the oil, the boiling of the water, the song of the kitchen help, the chop-chop of the prep knife – it’s a virtual symphony of flavor and sound co-mingling to become a unique culinary creation.
Once again Laguens is in the kitchen and back to his roots: cooking! This tenacious rebel of wine, food and frolic has, under many guises, been bringing his tantalizing, thoughtful cuisine to many appreciative Northern Colorado palates.
On many levels Laguens is both chef and showman. He recognized that restaurant guests might like to see him actually preparing their food, so he cut a large piece of the kitchen wall out and installed a window that allows him to personally greet and welcome his patrons/friends as they enter. To backup the personal atmosphere, he hired a enthusiastic local staff full of familiar faces.
“I like to hire adults who are individuals. For example I don’t tell people what to wear. If I have to worry about the little things then I am already screwed. I celebrate being alive all the time and I try to hire people that are like-minded.” Laguens said.
What you had at Plank last month might not be on the menu next month. Laguens is committed to changing his menu monthly. He feels that it’s important keep pace with the seasonal culinary offerings.
He explains: “I have a short attention span and I get bored easily. Music is a good metaphor: you might put the same ingredients in each time but it always tastes just a little bit different. I wouldn’t want to play the same song over and over. I also prefer to cook according to what is in season. My style of cooking is to buy the best ingredients and try not to screw them up. The earth’s variety and abundance is the true source of my culinary creativity.”
The black cod that was on the menu in June was drawn from a sustainable resource. The arugula was handpicked especially for Plank. These and other subtle nuances will bring you back time and again.
Laguens first attraction to the kitchen was: “I was always a good eater. I had a mama as opposed to a mother. Our table at home in New Orleans was always a source of flavor and abundance.”
From the humble beginnings of a good eater, Laguens has evolved into a top line chef and Fort Collins favorite. He explains this evolution with his kitchen work ethic and enthusiasm.
“Everything I do, I do hard and to the best of my ability. On my days off I’ll cook all day. I love it! Anything you love and try your best at, you generally do well and with a smile on your face.”
Visit Plank at 181 N College Ave Tuesdays through Saturdays 4pm - 11pm. 970.484.0297.